It is an impressive collection of his text-based paintings, dadaist sculptures and large installations.

Well worth a visit!

Situated within Lyon’s Cité Internationale, by the banks of the Rhone and near the park Tete d’Or, the Musée d’Art Contemporain is at the heart of a scenic and pleasant area within the boundaries of France’s remarkable second city.

In 1984, when the museum was located within the Musée des Beaux Arts de Lyon, a particular interest in the production of art works began.

These works, new project for the artist or continuation of an earlier concept, were produced in the museum, for the museum, in direct collaboration with the artist and became a part of the museum’s collection.

This gave an opportunity to artists to experiment with form, idea and dimension, and to create work in harmony with the space itself.

The museum’s politics of production imposed upon the architect to create an interieur space which could be entirely modified, in order to cater for the demands of the numerous artists using the space as well as the diverse exhibition spaces designed by the curators.

Ben Vautier

Ben Vautier (born on July 18, 1935 in Naples, Italy), also known simply as Ben, is a French artist.
Vautier lives and works in Nice, where he ran a record shop called Magazin between 1958 and 1973.

He discovered Yves Klein and the Nouveau Réalisme in the 1950s, but he became quickly interested in the French dada artist Marcel Duchamp, the music of John Cage and joined the Fluxus artistic movement in the 1960s.

In 1959, Vautier founded the journal Ben Dieu. In 1960, he had his first one-man show, Rien et tout in Laboratoire 32.

He is also active in Mail-Art and is mostly known for his text-based paintings; an example of the latter is his work “L’art est inutile. Rentrez chez vous” (Art is Useless, Go Home).
He has long defended the rights of minorities in all countries, and he has been influenced by the theories of François Fontan about ethnism. For example, he has defended the Occitan language (south of France), which is on the verge of extinction because speakers are shifting to French.

Anti-art is a loosely-used term applied to an array of concepts and attitudes that reject prior definitions of art and question art in general.

Anti-art tends to conduct this questioning and rejection from the vantage point of art. The term is associated with the Dada movement and is generally accepted as attributable to Marcel Duchamp pre-World War I.

Fluxus Movement 1960-1965
The Fluxus movement emerged in New York in the 60′s, moving to Europe, and eventually to Japan.

The movement encompassed a new aesthetic that had already appeared on three continents. That aesthetic encompasses a reductive gesturality, part Dada, part Bauhaus and part Zen, and presumes that all media and all artistic disciplines are fair game for combination and fusion. Fluxus presaged avant-garde developments over the last 40 years.
Fluxus objects and performances are characterized by minimalist but often expansive gestures based in scientific, philosophical, sociological, or other extra-artistic ideas and leavened with burlesque.
Yoko Ono is the best-known individual associated with Fluxus, but many artists have associated themselves with Fluxus since its emergence. In the ’60s, when the Fluxus movement was most active, artists all over the globe worked in concert with a spontaneously generated but carefully maintained Fluxus network.

Since then, Fluxus has endured not so much as a movement but as a sensibility–a way of fusing certain radical social attitudes with ever–evolving aesthetic practices.

Initially received as little more than an international network of pranksters, the admittedly playful artists of Fluxus were, and remain, a network of radical visionaries who have sought to change political and social, as well as aesthetic, perception.

Musée d’art Contemporain, Lyon

The Pure Art Gallery

www.purefrancenow.com

Developed over the years from the 19th century when on one particular night people commemorated the Virgin Mary by lighting candles in their windows.

The modern four-day event sees millions throng the streets to see marvellously illuminated buildings and an array of multi-media effects. Simply, awesome!

Visit the superb picture show of Lyon’s Féte des Lumiéres featured on the BBC’s dedicated website now. It’s not like being there, but the photos are amazing.

Also visit Purefrancenow’s visual coverage of last year’s event The Bright Lights of Lyon

Lyon’s Festival of Lights

www.purefrancenow.com

Since 1852 the residents of Lyon have celebrated the anniversary of the unveiling of a gold-leafed, bronze statue of the Virgin Mary on the Fourviere hillside overlooking Lyon.

On average, Lyon’s ‘Fête des Lumieres’ event means that Lyon welcomes over 4 million visitors during 4 days of eventful celebrations. Visitors, both local and international, all come to view the 80, or so, different light projects that are staged throughout the city.

Around 8 million small candles are also sold in Greater Lyon, and surrounding towns, to be placed on window ledges at dusk on the 8th December as a ‘thank you’ to the Virgin Mary (or Saint Marie, as she is known in France.)

This delightful tradition was a surprise to me the day before we visited Lyon for the event. When I picked up Ellis from his village school in Perreux, Roannais, all the children came out carrying lit candles that they then placed on the window ledges around the school – so sweet!

Anyway, back to Lyon!

For the very first time we visited Lyon’s Fête des Lumieres this year. We were a little apprehensive, wondering just how busy the Lyon was going to be, and where on earth we would park.

We arrived early afternoon on the Saturday – Day 2 of the event – and were pleased to drive into Lyon without much of a problem, and we eventually ended up parking at ‘Perrache’, Lyon’s main railway station. We walked into Lyon centre.

As dusk fell the light show began, and this grand city was illuminated. We wandered from one venue to another (albeit very slowly due to the vast numbers of people.) The atmosphere was magical!

Whilst at one time the buildings would have been lit up fairly simply, with advancing technology this has now meant that incredibly spectacular , colourful, and animated displays illuminate the great facades of the churches and various historical and important buildings.

Music and commentary is piped through loudspeakers, helping to create the overall atmosphere – from choirs singing outside the cathedral Saint Jean-Baptiste in Vieux-Lyon (Old Lyon), to the fantastic and elaborate children’s story told and animated at the Hotel de Ville.

Of course, the streets are decorated for christmas and this adds to the festive cheer, along with the annual ‘Big Wheel’ that graces La Bellecour, and the traditional Swiss market that fills the square near Perrache station.

Both of which are well worth a visit – though I did leave it to my husband, Brian and son, Ellis, to test the wheel which was 60 metres high with open carriages and no strapping-in! Definitely not for me!

Although we only managed to visit 7, or so, of the special light shows we really felt that we had got a true flavour of the whole event. We had certainly walked far enough, and had been in Lyon for over 7 hours!

Lyon, as a truly international and cosmopolitan city, does France proud with this spectacle. Whilst showing off the beautiful architecture of its many historical buildings in an imaginative and technologically brilliant way, it does not forget the fundamental religious historical basis, and true meaning, of its Fête de Lumiere.

We will certainly be back next year to soak up this pre-Christmas festival, and marvel at the night-time beauty of one of our favourite cities!

Some Interesting Facts!

Following the wishes of the Lyon magistrates in 1643, to mark the end of the plague, the 8th September was chosen as a festival to celebrate the event.

This date was also then chosen to inaugurate the grand bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, placed on the new dome of the steeple that dominates the city.

This statue, measuring 5.6 metres in height, was a commission of the sculptor, Fabisch, who in 1863 was to make the statue of the ‘Immaculate Conception’ at the grotto in Lourdes.

For more information on Lyon, the Rhone-Alpes, and the Roannais visit our dedicated website: www.purefrancenow.com

More than anything else, it has been a case of normally 'diving' into areas of Lyon with which we are already familiar, and which were within close proximity of our favourite, small, (and very good value-for-money)hotel – L'Hotel des Celestines – to be exact.

Time is often a constraint, so better to know where you are headed than risk uncertainty and disappointment .

Not on this occasion, though!!

Having been to the airport early one Sunday morning we were determined to investigate this locally famous indoor market. As on many times before, we were very pleasantly surprised.

The normal promotional, tourist brochures describe 'Les Halles de Lyon' as "Escale gourmande au royaume du goût" – translated as a "Gourmet pit-stop in the kingdom of flavour" (Yes, it doesn't quite sound as romantic in English!). It is, however, not far from the truth.

To be fair, from the outside, 'Les Halles de Lyon', with its modern glass frontage, could be just another contemporary office or retail showroom. Once inside, though, it is a 'paradise ' of French gastronomy! I can guarantee you will be enthralled.

There are some 58 establishments showcasing the very best of Lyonnais traditional cuisine and products. The atmosphere is lively and festive, and as the brochure says, " Les Halles de Lyon unites the whole food spectrum through as shared passion for excellence"

Entering the halls from Cours Lafayette, the first stall that caught our eye immediately was the chocolatier, Séve.

And wow!  What a sight! I can never understand the difference between food shopping in France and with what we often have to 'put-up' with in the UK. You can simply not compare the two (unless, perhaps, you are visiting the likes of Harrods, or Fortnum and Mason, in London.) Okay, so Lyon is the second city of France, but even in London you would probably struggle to find such a similar, extensive, quality market under one roof.

Anyway, back to Séve, established in 1905.

What can I say!? Yet again, a rainbow of colour, quality, and spectacular design and display. So artistic, the array of handmade chocolates. The macaroons (in over 20 different combination of colours and flavours), are perfection.

The packaging is simply beautiful, and having tasted a sample of 'macaroon au citron' we were smitten.

Rather interestingly, they also had a selection of savoury versions of these macaroons to serve as aperitif, with flavours of foie gras, mushrooms, and olive.

As you pass down the various aisles you are visually inundated with magnificent displays of many varieties of produce – quality and perfection. Stall after stall, an abundance of cheeses, meats, charcuterie, fish, coffee, bread (of course!), flowers, bars specialising in 'fruits de mer', seafood, oysters and crustaceans – some, the likes of which I have never seen before!

We were also delighted to find that our local, Roannais-based cheese company, 'Fromagerie Mons', was well represented with their own beautiful displayed presentation in association with Fromagerie Marechal. We love this high quality company which also supplies many of the regions top reataurants.

Their selection of cheeses is mind boggling!

So, at 'Les Halles de Lyon', along with the other 5 fromageries, you really are, literally, spoilt for choice.

The 14, yes 14, charcuteries and epiceries offer an array of cured meats, saucisson, and various delicacies from around the world, including Italy and Spain, as well as France.

There is a large shop in the market called Bahadourian which offers exotic spices, herbs, and a myriad of sweet and savoury delicatessen products. Shelves are stacked high with interesting items from the 4 corners of the world.

Bahadourian also have a little 'restaurant exotique' next to their shop in the market ,called Insh'ka, which has distinct north African influences in its cuisine.

We had lunch here – chicken tagine for me and chargrilled lamb with rice for my husband, Brian. Superb!

Down one side of 'Les Halles' there are specialist stall, bars and restaurants serving oysters, and other various shellfish, all beautifully arranged on large platters with mountains of crushed ice – crabs, lobsters, sea anenomes, langoustine – the list is endless!

And it doesn't stop there! You can also dine at 'Les Garçons Bouchers', predominantly a meat restaurant, or at 'Resto Halles' , or at one of the 3 other alternative cafe/snack bars.

The choice is all yours!

There are also seven stalls selling fruit and vegetable, there are 2 fishmongers, a merchant specialising in the sale of foie gras. 'Pétrossian' sells only caviars, and 'Rolle' offers salmon, marinated and preserved. There are three purveyors of poultry and game, and if you are in need of more liquid sustenance, there are, of course, a good choice of wine merchants.

One could easily spend the day here at 'Les Halles de Lyon'.

Les Halles de Lyon is open week days from 8am to 7pm, and on Saturdays from 8am to 2pm. Closing only on Mondays.

The oyster sellers and restaurants are also open on Mondays, and during the evenings.

If you are spending a few days in this wonderful city of Lyon, then be sure to set aside part of your time to discover the delights of this amazing 'jewel' of Lyon, that is 'Les Halles de Lyon'.

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, 102 cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon

www.lyon.fr 

Having 'done' other major European capitals she wondered if it was worth spending the weekend in France's second city, or not.

Like many people the only part of Lyon that she had encountered was it's airport-Saint Exupery, en route to the South of France or ski destinations in the Alps.

When we first began our love affair with France whilst renovating our first original holiday home, some 13 years ago, so derelict was our 'Stables', and so tempting was the sophistication and ambience of Lyon, that we would jet over to make some major decisions with our property then drive the hour and ten minutes to Lyon so that we could spend 2 or 3 nights there.

I think, as with most views of the city, the place to begin is the highest vantage point. The truely breath-taking Basilica of the Notre Dame, perched magestically high on the hill of Fourviere, directly above the old town (Vieux Lyon).

Once you have ascended to the dizzy heights overlooking the city,(you can either climb by foot or there is a brilliant funicular railway to take the strain off your feet!) the views are to 'die' for!

At this vantage point you are on the western side of the Saône, below are the medieval turrets and towers of the old town, a fantastic maze of cafe and restaurant-lined streets with tiny shops and ancient courtyards.

Between the two great rivers lies the commercial area-fabulous shops, beautiful streets, and yet more bars, cafes and restaurants, theatres, galleries. And, early each morning, along the Quai Celestins the most fantastic market. But make sure you get there early, as by one o'clock all is being efficiently and quickly tidied away.

It's creamy white, architecturally ornate form, when viewed from the streets below, reveals the most amazing detail when you get close- it is stunning!

If you investigate further, within walking distance of the Notre Dame there are Roman ruins including an ampitheatre, and gallo-roman museum. (A separate route on the funicular railway also takes you there directly.)

Visit the Tourist Information Offices, one  at the foot of the Funicular railway, and another in the beautiful open space of the Place de Bellecour to find out more, and also to pick up maps and information about local events and festivals.